Denton Pest Control Company talks about Getting Your Lawn Ready for the Fall

 Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams of Service 1st Pest and Lawn offers advice on “Getting Your Lawn Ready for the Fall”. 

A little bit of maintenance in the fall goes a long way toward making your lawn look GREAT in the spring and summer, and will also winterize your grass. Spend some time outside on a beautiful Autumn day working on your lawn and it will really pay off next growing season. Get the whole family involved it’s a great way to spend a fall afternoon.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams says “Fall Lawn Care will give You a better Lawn in the Spring and Summer”.  Call Service 1st Pest and Lawn for help with your Fire Ant control, Termite control, lawn care or pest control needs, 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Company talks about Fire Ants in the Fall

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams of Service 1st Pest and Lawn offers advice on “Fall Fire Ants”.

Fire Ants are very active in North Texas during the Fall Season.  The reason is they have been growing their colonies all Summer long unnoticed.  They are un noticed because when it is dry they go deeper under ground where there is moisture present.  When it gets cooler in the fall they not only move there colonies above ground creating mounds but are also very active establishing new colonies.

Treating fire ant mounds in the fall is very important.  If left untreated, they might move under your house when the weather gets cold looking for a place to over winter.  Many times they begin showing up in bathrooms and other wet areas in the winter time.  This occurs when they have moved under the house to over winter and begin entering the house through plumbing penetrations in the slab.

When fire ants are under the house and entering through plumbing penetrations in the winter time, treatment can be very difficult, for various reasons.  First, the Fire Ant colony does not eat much in the winter time and as a result baits are either not effective or very slow to gain control.  Second, treating the colony directly with pesticide takes specialized equipment because the colony is under the slab.

It is best to prevent Fire Ant problems in the winter by treating mounds in your lawn in the Fall.  A good method is the Texas Two Step as promoted by Texas A&M agricultural extension service.  This involves broadcasting Fire Ant bait such as Amdro on the lawn and then treating any visible mounds with Orthene 3 days later.  Be sure to follow the instructions on the label before any applications.  Over applications or under applications will reduce the effectiveness of the treatment.  More is not better anytime you’re dealing with pesticides.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams says “Treat Fire Ants in the Fall to prevent problems in the Winter”.  Call Service 1st Pest and Lawn for help with your Fire Ant control, Termite control, lawn care or pest control needs, 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on Carpenter Ants.

 Denton  Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams of Service 1st Pest and Lawn offers advice on Carpenter Ants.

Carpenter ants are social insects that make their colonies primarily in wood. They hollow out wood to build their nests, making their galleries and chambers velvety-smooth as if a carpenter had sanded the surfaces. Their tunneling in wood and foraging for food and water lead to their “pest” status in and around homes.

The presence of carpenter ants can mean that a building has problems that need attention, such as moisture, rotting wood or other conditions conducive to ant infestation. In Texas, there are at least 14 species of carpenter ants that destroy wood. Homeowners can minimize damage to their houses by learning how to identify the ants, knowing where to look for them, and understanding ways to prevent and control them.

Identification

Carpenter ants are among the largest ants in the United States. Adults (Fig. 1) vary in length from about 1?4 inch (6 mm) for a minor worker, to 1?2 inch (12 mm) for a major worker, and up to 7?16 inch (18 mm) for winged reproductives. Each colony has one functional, wingless queen, and queens are 9?16 inch (20 mm) long.

Figure 1. Adult carpenter ant

The ants develop through several stages of metamorphosis: egg, larva, pupa and adult. All four stages can be found in a colony. The adults have six legs, three distinct body regions with a constricted waist, and prominent, elbowed antennae. They can be solid black, yellowish red, or a combination of black, red and reddish orange. A carpenter ant has only one segment or node between the thorax and abdomen. It also has a circle of hairs at the tip of the abdomen and an evenly rounded thorax when viewed from the side.

Winged carpenter ants resemble winged termites and, in Texas, it is not uncommon for both of these important wood-destroying insects to swarm at about the same time. It is vital that they be identified accurately, because control measures differ greatly for the two insect groups.

Ants have small, constricted waists. Their wings are of unequal length, with the front pair longer than the hind pair. Their antennae are bent at right angles about mid-length (Fig. 2). Termite bodies are not narrowed at the middle. Their wings are of equal length, and their antennae are rather straight with bead-like segments.

Figure 2. Ant and termite comparison.

Biology and habits

Mature carpenter ant colonies produce male and female winged reproductives from early spring to summer. Environmental conditions cause them to emerge and swarm. They mate during these swarms or nuptial flights, which may occur over several days or weeks. After the nuptial flight, males die and females begin searching for a nesting site.

After establishing the nest, the female deposits 15 to 20 eggs. The queen cares for the initial larvae and feeds them with fluids secreted from her body. Under favorable conditions, the eggs progress through the larval and pupal stages to become worker ants in about 2 months. After becoming adults, new workers expand the nest, excavate galleries and provide food for the queen and larvae.

The first-generation worker ants are small. After foraging for food outside of the nest, worker ants return to regurgitate partially digested food to nourish developing larvae and the queen. Older larvae are fed solid food by the workers.

Carpenter ant colonies remain small during the first year, but they grow rapidly, and in 3 to 6 years will contain up to 3,000 ants. Winged reproductives are produced by older, mature colonies. Once colonies are mature, workers are produced continuously to replace those that die, while 200 to 400 winged individuals are produced each year for reproductive flights. Winged reproductives usually develop in late summer, spend winter in the nest, and swarm in spring and early summer.

Nesting sites

Carpenter ants normally build their nests in hollow trees, logs, posts, landscaping timbers and wood used in homes and other structures. Unlike termites, ants do not feed on wood but excavate galleries in wood as places to build nests. Carpenter ants prefer to nest in moist or decayed wood, frequently entering existing cavities or void areas through cracks and crevices.

The ants usually cut galleries with the grain of the wood, following the softer parts. They leave the harder wood as walls separating the tunnels, but cut openings in these walls to connect the galleries. Access to the outside may be through natural openings, or the ants may cut openings where none exist.

Occupied galleries are kept very clean. Shredded wood fragments from the excavations are carried from the nest and placed outside. Cone-shaped piles of these fragments, often called frass piles, sometimes build up beneath the nest openings. Frass piles may also contain excretions, dead carpenter ants, and bits of wood, sand, soil or insulation. Frass is not always visible because ants may dispose of it in hollow parts of trees, in void areas in structures, or in unused galleries within the nest.

Carpenter ants become pests when they nest or forage for food in homes and other buildings. Usually, an infestation occurs when all or part of an existing colony moves into a house from outside. Ants enter structures through several common routes: where tree branches or utility lines contact a structure, through cracks and crevices around windows and in foundation walls, through ventilation openings in the attic, and through heating or air-conditioning ducts.

Carpenter ants like to nest in wood that is very moist or has been previously damaged by water or termites. A colony develops best in wood with a moisture content of more than 12 to 15 percent. This can happen where there is a leak, condensation or continuously high, relative humidity. Typical nest locations include:

• wood affected by water seepage from plugged drain gutters, damaged flashing, wood shingle roofs, poorly fitted or damaged siding, improper pitch of porch floors, or leaking door and window frames;
• wood between the roof and ceiling of flat-deck porches;
• areas around plumbing in kitchens and bathrooms where water leaks have soaked the surrounding wood; • wood in contact with soil, such as porch supports, siding and stair risers;
• wood in areas of poor ventilation or condensation, such as cellars, crawl spaces, attics and under porches;
• wood scraps in dirt-filled slab porches;
• voids under bathtubs or hot tubs;
• hollow wooden doors, hollow ceiling beams, hollow shower and curtain rods, and hollow porch posts and columns;
• window sill plates and floor joists;
• voids under attic insulation or under insulation in crawl spaces; and
• voids above windows and doors.

Diet

Carpenter ants are omnivorous. They eat a great variety of both animal and plant foods, including honeydew from aphids, scale insects and other plant-sucking insects; plant juices; fresh fruits; living or dead insects; other small invertebrates; common sweets such as syrup, honey, jelly, sugar and fruit; and most kinds of meat, grease and fat. Unlike termites, they cannot digest wood cellulose.

Ants forage mostly at night. Solitary ants seen during the day are usually scouts looking for suitable food sources. Carpenter ants may follow things such as a water hose or other “markers” in the yard to make their way from a nest in a tree to indoor locations.

Management

Inspection

The key to successfully managing carpenter ants is to identify all locations where a colony could exist. Inspect the structure thoroughly, both inside and out. Carefully examine common infestation areas for signs of carpenter ants. Conical piles of shredded wood debris (frass piles) indicate nest sites.

Outside a structure, examine any tree stumps, roof edges, trim boards, attached fences, dead or dying shrubbery, and wooden porch floors and columns. Also check for overhanging tree limbs, vines, and power or utility lines. In living trees, openings to a nest are usually in knotholes, scars, dead areas or crotch angles. Carpenter ants may travel as far as 100 yards from their nest to a food source. It is sometimes possible to follow foraging carpenter ants to find their nest.

During the inspection, you may find other woodinfesting insects or damage caused by them. Refer to Extension publications E-368, Subterranean Termites; E-367, Formosan Subterranean Termites; E-366, Drywood Termites; and L-1826, Carpenter Bees, for more information on these insects.

Prevention

To greatly reduce the likelihood of carpenter ant infestations:

• Replace damp or decaying wood.
• Repair plumbing or roof leaks promptly and replace damaged wood.
• Make sure there is proper clearance between soil and structural wood.
• Provide good ventilation under the house and in the attic.
• Drain water away from the structure.
• Remove stumps, logs and wood debris near the house.
• Store firewood away from the house
• Trim back any tree or shrub limbs touching the structure
• Remove or treat with insecticides any carpenter ant colonies within 100 feet of the house.
• Keep exposed wood in good condition, with all cracks, knot holes, checks or joints properly sealed with wood putty and all surfaces painted.

Insecticide treatment

Treat carpenter ant nests with a residual insecticide applied either as a dust or spray. You may need to drill small holes into wall voids, window and door sills, baseboards and other areas to reach the nest or major part of the colony. Pesticide dusts are particularly effective, as ant activity tends to spread the dust throughout the colony.

Several types of insecticides are effective, including those containing active ingredients such as chlorfenapyr, fipronil, or any of the pyrethroids (permethrin, cypermethrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, etc.).

Treat wooden structural members and other exposed, frequently wet wood with a wood preservative to slow decay. Products made with boron salts can be used on untreated wood surfaces to protect against wood decay and wood-destroying organisms.

Sometimes it is necessary to hire a professional pest control operator to control carpenter ants. Professionals are familiar with the biology and control of these ants and have experience in finding the nests. Carpenter ants tend to be noisy within their nest, so pest control operators may have listening devices to help pinpoint the location of the colony. Evening inspections may also be necessary since carpenter ants forage at night. Homeowners can give the pest control operator clues about the ants’ movement and sightings, which can help the operator find and eliminate colonies.

Baits with active ingredients such as abamectin, fipronil and hydramethylnon are labeled for carpenter ants. The colony can be controlled successfully if foraging ants take the baits and pass the toxin to the queen and brood. Research is being conducted to find baits more acceptable to foraging ants than some currently on the market.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams says if you need help controlling Carpenter Ants.  Call us at Service 1st Pest and Lawn for help with your termite control, lawn care or pest control needs, 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on Fleas.

Denton  Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams of Service 1st Pest and Lawn offers advice on Fleas.

Fleas are small, wingless insects that feed on the blood of animals and people. Americans spend about $9 billion a year controlling fleas – one of the biggest expenses for pet owners.

In Texas, most flea problems are caused by the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. This flea feeds on cats, dogs and wildlife. Other kinds of fleas, such as the dog flea, human flea, and rat flea, are less common on pets and in homes. Fortunately, fleas need not be a serious problem because there are many effective treatments.

Identifying the problem

Adult cat fleas are about 1/8 inch long (1 to 3 mm). They are brownish-black, flattened looking, and without wings. Backward-pointing bristles help fleas move through the hairs or feathers of host animals and make them more difficult to remove by grooming. The six legs, especially the hind pair, are long and adapted for jumping.

Flea larvae are less than 1/4 inch long (6 mm), legless, and dirty white in color. The most likely place to find larvae is in infested pet bedding.

Understanding fleas

During their life cycle fleas pass through four stages–egg, larva, pupa and adult. Although they can jump, adult fleas do not usually travel long distances without a host. Fleas prefer to wait and jump onto a passing animal. Once aboard, they remain until they are dislodged or groomed from the animal. Without a host, adult fleas live only a few days to 2 weeks. On short-haired cats and dogs fleas survive an average of 8 days; they live longer on long-haired animals.

The female flea begins laying eggs within 2 days of her first blood meal. Four to 9 days later she produces an average of 27 eggs per day, consuming about 15 times her body weight in blood daily. Much of this blood is excreted as partially digested feces. Flea feces are a fine, reddish-black dust seen in pet fur and bedding.

Flea larvae feed on adult flea excrement. Without it, they cannot survive, although they also may feed on organic matter such as food particles, dead skin or feathers. Larvae develop in 5 to 11 days.

Fleas do not survive well outdoors in hot, sunny lawns. Relative humidity less than 50 percent or soil temperature higher than 95 degrees F kills flea larvae. Moist, shaded spots near pet resting areas are the places to find fleas. Indoors, flea larvae are usually found under furniture and in pet bedding. The pupa is the transition stage between the larva and adult.

The pupa forms inside a cocoon spun by the larva. After a week or two the pupa becomes an adult. The adult flea may remain in the cocoon for up to 5 months, but when stimulated by a passing animal the adult can emerge within seconds. Long-vacant homes or apartments can “come alive” with such fleas when new inhabitants move in.

Animal and human health

Fleas can be a source of both irritation and disease. Dogs and cats scratch constantly when heavily infested, resulting in soiled and roughened coats and, sometimes, in nervous conditions. The most serious effects occur when a pet develops an allergy to flea bites. As few as one or two bites can cause severe itching and scratching in allergic pets.

Cat fleas do not normally live on humans, but do bite people who handle infested animals. Flea bites cause small, red, itchy bumps, usually on the ankles and lower legs. People with allergies to flea bites suffer from hives, rashes or generalized itching. Allergic reactions usually appear 12 to 24 hours after a bite, and may last a week or more.

Control

An integrated flea control program includes good sanitation and treatment of the pet and environment. You can eliminate fleas from your home with proper treatment, but it may take time, especially if the infestation is heavy.

Sanitation. Change pet bedding regularly and vacuum thoroughly. Vacuuming removes up to 30 percent of the larvae and up to 60 percent of flea eggs from a carpet, as well as the larvae’s food supply of dried blood.

Vacuum under furniture, cushions, chairs, beds, and along walls. Discard vacuum cleaner bags at least once a week. Fleas can continue to develop inside vacuum cleaner bags and re-infest the house.

Treating Pets. Your pet’s first line of defense against fleas is a flea comb and a good bath. Soap acts as a gentle insecticide and

helps control light infestations on your pet. Though time consuming, combing helps reduce the need for insecticides. Flea combs have fine teeth that remove adult fleas from fur. Most dogs and cats seem to enjoy this treatment; pay special attention to the face and neck, and the area in front of the tail. Dip the comb frequently in soapy water or an alcohol solution to kill fleas removed from the pet.

Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are a safe preventative treatment for fleas. These products work by disrupting the normal development of flea eggs and larvae. When exposed to IGRs, adult fleas are unable to reproduce; eggs fail to hatch and larvae die before they complete their development. Because most IGRs kill only eggs and larvae, they do not eliminate adult fleas quickly. For this reason, they are usually mixed with a mild insecticide.

Insect growth regulators are available as sprays, spot-ons, pills or food additives. One product designed for internal use is called Program® (active ingredient: lufenuron). Program® can be given as a pill (for dogs), food additive (for cats), or injection (for cats). A similar product, Sentinel®, contains lufenuron plus a heartworm preventative. These products are available only through veterinarians. They are very effective, particularly for indoor pets.

Two other insect growth regulators for topical use are methoprene and pyriproxyfen. Methoprene is sold under several trade names including Precor® and vIGRen®. Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are available at pet stores as dips, pet sprays, spot-ons and flea collars. Control requires 4 to 6 weeks.

For severe flea problems, an IGR treatment may not be quick enough. Use a product that kills adult fleas, such as imidacloprid (Advantage™) or fipronil (Frontline™). Both products have low toxicity to mammals and pose little risk to pets or people. Advantage™ and Frontline™ provide 1- and 3-month protection from fleas, respectively. Frontline™ also kills ticks for up to 1 month after application. Both Advantage™ and Frontline™ are available from veterinarians as spray and spot-on treatments.

Spot-on treatments (pesticides applied to one or more spots on the animal’s back) control adult fleas effectively. Natural oils on the fur help transfer the pesticide to all parts of the pet’s body. With all products, read and follow label directions carefully. Products designed for use on adult dogs should not be used on puppies or cats, unless specified on the label.

Botanical (plant-based) insecticides kill adult and larval fleas and are relatively low in toxicity. Botanical insecticides include pyrethrum (or pyrethrins) and citrus oil extracts (limonene and linalool). Use botanical insecticides with care. Though usually safe when applied according to label directions, some pets (especially certain cat breeds) are sensitive to botanicals–especially citrus oil products.

It is sometimes claimed that garlic, Brewer’s yeast, cedar bedding and various herbal sachets control fleas, but there is little scientific evidence to support such claims. Volatile oils in fresh cedar chips are toxic to fleas, but the effect lasts a very short time. Tests have shown that Brewer’s yeast does not protect pets from fleas.

Treating homes. The pet’s living areas should be treated at the same time that the pet is treated. This kills immature and newly

emerging fleas and prevents re-infestation of the pet.

Several low-toxicity treatments are available for indoor use. Citrus sprays containing limonene or linalool can be applied to rugs, carpeting and pet bedding. These products kill fleas on contact, but evaporate quickly and leave little residual protection against emerging fleas.

Boron-based products, such as disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, can be used on indoor carpeting and have little skin (dermal) toxicity. Borates kill immature fleas by contaminating their food supply. Because adult fleas feed on fresh blood only, boron insecticides do not control this life stage. Borate treatments are best applied as shampoos to avoid problems with dustiness, abrasion to carpets, and contamination of furniture or food preparation surfaces.

The insect growth regulators methoprene and pyriproxyfen can be used indoors. Although methoprene is unstable in sunlight, it is an effective indoor treatment. Pyriproxyfen sprays, available to pest control professionals under the trade names Archer™ and Nylar™, can be applied both indoors and outdoors. Pyriproxyfen controls both immature and adult fleas. Indoors, treat pet loafing and sleeping areas, and in and under nearby furniture. Outdoors, treat only flea breeding sites such as bedding areas, the ground under decks and shrubbery, and wherever pets spend a lot of time. Well maintained lawns in sunny sites are unlikely to harbor many fleas. Suitable consumer products for indoor and outdoor treatments are listed in Table 1.

Follow-up. Because flea pupae are hard to kill with insecticides, an additional follow-up treatment is usually needed 7 to 10 days after the first application. When using short-residual insecticides such as pyrethrins, two or three follow-up sprays at 5- to 10-day intervals may be required.

Biological and Mechanical Controls

Fire ants and other predatory insects eat flea larvae but they do not control fleas completely. Several kinds of predatory nematodes (a type of microscopic worm) are sold for outdoor flea control, but their effectiveness has not been well tested. Studies suggest that nematodes work best in sandy soils. Irrigate with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water before and after application. This prolongs nematode survival and helps them move through the soil in search of flea larvae.

Several kinds of flea traps are available from pest control companies and pet stores. The most effective designs use a special green light that blinks occasionally to simulate the shadow of a passing host. Most attract fleas to a sticky card, where they are trapped. Place traps near pet beds and loafing areas for best control. By themselves, traps are unlikely to solve most flea problems; however, they can be a useful part of an integrated flea control program for your home.

Don’t wait until fleas get out of hand. Begin your flea control program early for best results. Start a frequent and thorough sanitation program, regularly inspect your pet for fleas, carefully follow the label directions of the insecticide product you choose, and dispose of all pesticides safely. These steps will help you reduce the need for extra pesticide treatments.

The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service is implied.

Safety Considerations

 
Be sure to read pesticide labels carefully. Products that are safe for dogs may not be safe for cats,
puppies and kittens. Generally, pets less than 4 weeks old should not be treated directly for fleas.

It’s important to wear the proper protective clothes when applying pesticides. Long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, socks and shoes are the minimum. Check the pesticide label for additional safety requirements. When mixing liquid pesticides wear unlined, chemicalresistant gloves. Allow pesticide sprays to dry thoroughly before letting people or pets into a treated area.

Never dispose of flea dips or other unused pesticides in storm sewers, toilets or sinks. This pollutes the environment and can result in costly clean-ups for your community. Leftover flea dip may be poured onto a grassy area for biological degradation, or disposed of in some other manner as specified on the label.

Working with a Pest Control Company

Sometimes it’s best to have professional help when dealing with fleas. A pest control company can treat both indoor and outdoor areas.

• Before having your home professionally treated, vacuum carpets and clear toys and clothing from areas to be sprayed. Vacuuming helps straighten fibers and prepare the carpet to receive treatment. Plan to stay off treated carpets until sprays have thoroughly dried, usually at least 2 hours.
• Ask the pest control operator to use the least toxic materials necessary to do the job. Use insect growth regulators for long-term control.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams says if you need help controlling Fleas.  Call us at Service 1st Pest and Lawn for help with your termite control, lawn care or pest control needs, 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on Grasshoppers.

Denton  Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams of Service 1st Pest and Lawn offers advice on Grasshoppers.

Grasshoppers are among the most widespread and damaging pests in Texas. There are about 150 species of grasshoppers in the state, but 90 percent of the damage to crops, gardens, trees and shrubs is caused by just five species. They are:

• Differential grasshopper, Melanoplus differentialis
  Black chevron markings on the hind femur help identify this species. Adults are 11?8 to 13?4 inches long. They move into fields from weedy borders and can be very destructive to crops. They are seldom found in grassland.
• Red-legged grasshopper, Melanoplus femurrubrum
  Adults are 7?8 to 11?4 inches long with red hind tibia. This species is especially damaging to alfalfa and other legumes, but they can be a problem in other crops, too. They are not a problem in grassland.
• Migratory grasshopper, Melanoplus sanguinipes
  This species is very destructive to both grasslands and cultivated crops. Adults are 7?8 to 11?8 inches long. These grasshoppers are strong fliers and may swarm over long distances.
• Two-striped grasshopper, Melanoplus bivitattus
  Adults are 13?4 inches long with two light stripes that extend from the eyes to the wing tips. They eat mostly weeds but will also move into cultivated crops.
• Packard grasshopper, Melanoplus packardii
  This species prefers sandy soils with light grass cover. They are the least damaging of the five species, but large numbers of them can be a problem in both grassland and cultivated crops.

A sixth species is not as damaging. It is the:

• Lubber grasshopper, Brachystola magna
  The lubber grasshopper prefers weedy areas but can be a problem in crops also, especially cotton. It is seldom a problem in grasslands. Adults are 13?4 to 2 inches long. These grasshoppers are flightless and their limited mobility makes them less damaging than the top five species. Lubber grasshoppers will feed on dead insects, even their own kind, in certain situations.

Grasshoppers cause some damage every year, but they become very destructive during outbreaks. The main factor affecting grasshopper populations is weather. Outbreaks, or exceptionally large populations, are usually preceded by several years of hot, dry summers and warm autumns. Dry weather increases the survival of nymphs and adults. Warm autumns allow grasshoppers more time to feed and lay eggs. Grasshoppers have a high reproductive capacity. The female lays an average of 200 eggs per season, and sometimes as many as 400 eggs. If favorable weather increases the number of eggs, nymphs and adults that survive, the grasshopper population may be dramatically larger the following year.

Biology

Grasshoppers deposit their eggs 1?2 to 2 inches below the soil surface in pod-like structures. Each egg pod consists of 20 to 120 elongated eggs cemented together. The whole mass is somewhat egg-shaped. Egg pods are very resistant to moisture and cold and easily survive the winter if the soil is not disturbed. Grasshoppers deposit eggs in fallow fields, ditches, fencerows, shelter belts and other weedy areas, as well as in crop fields, hay fields and alfalfa.

Eggs begin hatching in late April or early May. Hatching peaks about mid-June and usually ends by late June. If spring weather is cool and extremely dry, hatching may be delayed and continue into July.

Young grasshoppers are called nymphs. They look like adults, but are smaller and have wing pads instead of wings. Nymphs go through five or six developmental stages and become adults in 40 to 60 days, depending on weather and food supplies.

The adults of grasshopper species that damage crops become numerous in mid-July and deposit eggs from late July through fall. Usually only one generation of grasshoppers is produced each year.

Biological Control

Grasshoppers have many natural enemies that help control their populations. A fungus, Entomophthora grylli, often kills many grasshoppers when the weather is warm and humid. Infected grasshoppers strike a characteristic pose at the top of a plant or other object. The grasshopper grasps the plant in a death embrace with the front and middle legs, while the hind legs are extended. It dies in this position. Fungal spores develop in and on the grasshopper’s body, then become airborne and infect other grasshoppers. Another natural enemy is a protozoan, Nosema locustae. Its spores have been incorporated with bran to make insecticide baits such as Semaspore®, Nolo Bait® or Grasshopper Attack®. These baits kill some nymphs but almost no adults, though infected adults lay fewer eggs. Baits act too slowly and kill too few grasshoppers to be useful for immediate control.

Other natural enemies include nematodes called hairworms and insects that feed on grasshoppers, such as the larvae of blister beetles, bee flies, robber flies, ground beetles, flesh flies and tangle-veined flies. Birds (quail, turkey, larks, etc.) and mammals also eat grasshoppers, but have little effect on large populations.

Mechanical Control

One way to control grasshopper populations is to eliminate sites where they might deposit eggs. Grasshoppers prefer undisturbed areas for egg laying, so tilling cropland in mid- to late summer discourages females. Tilling may reduce soil moisture and contribute to erosion, but those disadvantages must be weighed against potential grasshopper damage to the next crop.

In Conservation Reserve Program (CRP) acreage, tillage is not an option. However, plant tissue can be shredded to reduce the grasshopper food supply. Any implement pulled across CRP fields will crush many insects, but the cost of fuel might outweigh the benefits.

Cultural Control

Controlling summer weeds in fallow fields has two benefits:

1) If grasshopper eggs are already in the field, there will be nothing for nymphs to feed on when eggs hatch.

2) Fields will not be attractive to egg-laying adults because there is nothing on which to feed.

Also eliminate tall grass and weeds from around any plants you wish to protect (crops, trees and gardens). This makes the area less attractive to grasshoppers and makes it easier for birds to prey on grasshoppers.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams says if you need help controlling Grasshoppers.  Call us at Service 1st Pest and Lawn for help with your termite control, lawn care or pest control needs, 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on Kill on Contact Pesticides.

Denton  Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams of Service 1st Pest and Lawn offers advice on Kill on Contact Pesticides.

A common myth concerning pesticides is that the stronger they are the quicker the kill and the better the control.  This is mostly false.

Contact killers are what most people think of when they think of insecticides. As soon as the insect is exposed to the chemical they expect the insect to stop dead in their tracks. The usage of this type of pesticide is very ineffective for various reasons.

Pesticides that kill on contact are very problematic because you are prone to attack symptoms of the problem rather than the root cause of your infestation.

If you kill ants within the home they die right there on the spot. The insecticide quickly dissipates where it has been sprayed and the chemical never makes it back to the ant nest. Secondly, because of ant sensitivity it often times instinctively knows to avoid areas where a pesticide that kills on contact has been used. Studies have shown that at any time; approximately only 10 – 20% of the ant population is away from the nest…and the best way to eradicate a nest is to remove the queen. The ant colony will reproduce more rapidly than what is killed on a day to day basis and thus you will never really eradicate your ant problem.

Similar to the situation regarding ants it may be very hard for you to locate the nest, web, or other harborage for various insects and therefore contact kill insecticides are ineffective. (Understanding that you need to apply contact killers directly onto the pest.)
Insects are very good at finding places within your home that are rarely disturbed; a place where you will not be able to apply your contact kill insecticide. Insects are often nocturnal which adds to the problem of having to locate the insect and applying the pesticide directly onto the little critter.

“Try to find insects in their hard to reach places, and make sure you’re looking in the dark while you are at it…Good Luck.” (Don’t forget the scorpions that can live without food or water for up to 18 months.)
In conclusion we are assuming that a contact kill pesticide is highly toxic and dissipates quickly (as most do); the last thing the EPA would like is a commercial pesticide that is highly toxic and resides over a long period of time within the environment. (Did someone say DDT?) Pesticides that are spread through body contact, that resides on an insect, and allows the insect to make it to nest would be far more effective than a contact kill pesticide in eradicating a pest problem.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams, Cheif Executive Officer of Service 1st Pest and Lawn Management  the flagship company of MWW Services Inc., offers both Commercial and Residential pest and lawn services, along with termite control and extermination. For a personal consultation please call 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on Trees.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams offers some advice about Trees.

I am often asked questions about trees.  Although I am not an Arborist I have learned a few things about trees over the several years I have been in the Pest Control and Lawn Care business.  One of the most common misconceptions I hear about trees is when a tree dies and Termites or Carpenter Ants are found in the dead tree people will assume the the Termites or Carpenter Ants killd the tree.  This is almost never the case.  These insects only attack wood that is already dead.  Termites do not feed on green or living wood material and Carpenter Ants only nest in the dead parts of trees.  The fact is that when Termites or Carpenter Ants are attacking a tree it is an indication that the tree is unhealthy and needs attention.  Healthy trees rarely have Termite infestations.  You may find Carpenter Ants in healthy trees in the areas that have been pruned. 

In conclusion, If you find your tree with insect infestations, don’t just treat the insects but look for factors that contribut to the insect infestation.  Such as: lack of water, lack of nutrients, over watering, other insect or disease symptoms, freeze damage, or lack of adequate sunlight.  For a detailed analysis an arborist should be consulted.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams, Cheif Executive Officer of Service 1st Pest and Lawn Management  the flagship company of MWW Services Inc., offers both Commercial and Residential pest and lawn services, along with termite control and extermination. For a personal consultation please call 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on Starting the New Year Right.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams offers some advice about Starting the New Year Right.

January and February is the time people begin thinking about their service providers for lawn care and pest control.  Remember the best way to keep your lawn green and weed free is timely and consistent applications of fertilizer and herbicides.  It is generally cheaper for the home owner to hire a licensed applicator to take care of the fertilizer and herbicide.  By the time the home owner purchases the required products and equipment he has spent more than the service provider would charge.  In addition, most home owners do not make the required applications at the right time and end up frustrated with weeds and thin turf.

The same is true with pest control services.  When applications are made on a timely basis most pest infestaions can be prevented.  Most of the time when home owners take care of their own pest control they over apply pesticides, believing that more is better.  More is never better with pesticide applications.  Pest control technicians are specially trained to mix and apply pesticides in a safe manner and only when necessary. 

In North Texas quarterly applications are generally sufficient to control most crawling pests in the house.  and remember to do your part to control fire ants in your lawn.  Leaving them un checked causes problems for the whole neighborhood.  See my previous blog post concerning fire ant control for more information.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams, Cheif Executive Officer of Service 1st Pest and Lawn Management  the flagship company of MWW Services Inc., offers both Commercial and Residential pest and lawn services, along with termite control and extermination. For a personal consultation please call 940-594-8154.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on controlling German Roaches.

Denton Pest Control Service offers advice on controlling Carpenter Ants.

Denton Pest Control Service owner Blake Williams offers some advice about Carpenter Ants.

Carpenter ants are a common sight around Texas homes throughout the year. Although their natural nesting sites are in trees, carpenter ants can also invade and live indoors. Texas carpenter ant species are not usually destructive to homes, however they can become a nuisance.

Carpenter ants are often first noticed in late winter and early spring. This is the time when carpenter ants and other ants emerge to mate and attempt to start new colonies. These reproductive forms are identified by their two pairs of wings and relatively large size. The presence of winged ants indoors generally means that a nest is located in the structure.